Salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid or coenzyme-Q10. They are active continuously handled in the pharmacy and also are cosmeceutical ingredients. The term arises at the end of the 80s as the union of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical words. He explains Adriana Ribé, dermatopatóloga and director of Ribe Clinic in Barcelona: “These are products that, in addition to a cosmetic action, have a therapeutic action for their biochemical characteristics and its potent action on the skin tissue .” Therefore, he adds, “we could say that approach in this regard to the category of drugs”.
WHAT ARE USED?
The applications are varied: from to combat photoaging of the skin, protection from sun and brighten up the skin to treat conditions such as acne and melasma. Thus, while “Salicylic acid reduces the stratum corneum and regulates sebum action of the sebaceous glands of the skin (seborregulador), hyaluronic acid has a moisturizing action” said Ribé, who also mentions retinoids (derivatives of vitamin a), which trigger the formation of collagen in the dermis, and alpha hydroxy acids, which promote exfoliation of the surface layers of the skin, contributing brightness and improving skin texture. Another active cosmeceuticals are ascorbic acid (vitamin C) with antioxidant properties that neutralize free radicals in the skin.
Also it highlights the B, C and E the alpha lipoic acid vitamins (ALA), both with an antioxidant effect, and argeriline, which has the capacity descontracturante muscle skin, smoothing fine lines.
Nevertheless, “there is no clear regulations that govern”. Ribé explains that the American drug agency (FDA) does not explicitly recognize the cosmeceutical concept as European legislation considers cosmetics. At the other extreme is Japan, where they are classified as “quasi drugs”.
Although the dermatologist says that n or no scientific studies on these products in clinical practice itself are recommended because they are safe “when used in appropriate indications” and because “they have an additional to the usual cosmetics plus and are an excellent therapy for maintain the results achieved with medical treatments. “